Madeira is a Portuguese island located in the Atlantic Ocean about 580 km west of the coast of Morocco and 980 km southwest of Lisbon. It is part of the Madeira archipelago with an area of 740.7 km². The entire archipelago has the status of an autonomous region of Portugal and as such belongs to the European Union (source: Wikipedia).
What is Madeira like?
If you fly to Madeira, you won't regret it. Madeira is, in one word, amazing. In another word, perfect, and in the third, simply love! You will fall in love with it immediately and will never want to go home.
That is, it only applies if Do you love hiking?, you like walking, exploring nature and the countryside. Madeira is incredible in this regard. If you prefer to lounge around on holiday, then go to Lipno and avoid Madeira.
Although Madeira has beaches, ocean and sunshine, it is not exactly a rolling island. Rolling around means you miss out on the best the island has to offer. And that is countless hiking trails, which lead around levadas (water channels), high waterfalls, hills and mountains. This is the real Madeira.
How to get to Madeira
Every vacation starts with buying plane tickets. As always, I recommend checking out Google Flights, choose your departure point and destination in Madeira. You can then decide where the best place to fly from is based on the prices. Next tips for finding and buying airline tickets I wrote on the page https://florinacestach.cz/tip_letenky/. So take a look here.
For us, the best price was the flights from Berlin. Literally for a few crowns compared to flying from Prague and parking at the airport in Berlin is absolutely great. Especially when you share the costs between 4 people. But here too I recommend paying for parking and securing it in advance. Then you just arrive, scan the code and park.
Where to stay in Madeira
One travel tip. Before you start looking for accommodation in Madeira, think about..., What do you want to see?. Yes, that favorite phase of studying the guide and planning again. You can't avoid it. If you want to save time, write about my guide, it will definitely help you.
Anyway, as always, it's better to stay close to the places you want to see. Madeira is not a big island, but still Crossings take a lot of time. Plus, you spend a lot of time in tunnels, Madeira is full of them.
We were in Madeira for 11 days and stayed in three different places. You can arrange accommodation through booking.com or airbnb.com, it depends on what you like-like.
For inspiration, we chose separate houses with a kitchen and 2 bedrooms. The first was a cabin literally in the middle of the forest Chalet Pico das Pedras, then a house with a jacuzzi in Porto Moniz (which I couldn't find anywhere else on offer) and finally luxury accommodation in Rochao Village. Here we thought that at the end we would relax in the pool and jacuzzi. That would be nice. Well, it would be. If the pool was at least a little heated. So we enjoyed it for about a minute. But otherwise the accommodation was great. I recommend both.
Flight and car rental
The flight to Madeira is not difficult at all. It takes approximately 4 hours (if you fly directly). But the same cannot be said about landing. Only pilots who have completed training and a test can land here. The approach maneuver is not just a straight descent, but at the end the pilot has to avoid part of the city of Funchal at low altitude. There is constant turbulence in the airport area, so it They're messing around with planes a lot. and there is a risk of collision with birds (I read about it on the internet).
Often pilots repeat the landing maneuver, so halfway through the landing they gain altitude and do a few circles before trying again, or they land on the neighboring island of Porto Santo. We were lucky, and even the man from the car rental company who was waiting for us described the landing as "the best landing". By the way, take a look at videos on youtube, so you know what you're getting into.
Traveling around the island
The ideal means of transport is car. There are a lot of options here. We made a reservation at some no name rental company that didn't even have a booth at the airport. But they brought the car to the airport, where we signed the contract, paid and off we went. The return was also at the airport, we just wrote a message saying when we would arrive and were instructed to leave the keys inside the car in a lockbox. No problem.
The roads in Madeira are in excellent condition. You'll spend a lot of time in tunnels, but it's faster than driving up and down winding roads. But you'll still enjoy them, don't worry.
The most beautiful places in Madeira
I certainly haven't seen all the beautiful places on the island, but I would say that the most beautiful ones that are worth visiting are. So what? under no circumstances should you miss?
Sunrise at Pico do Arieiro and trek to the highest peak, Pico Ruivo
In May, the sun rises in Madeira around seven in the morning. And there's no better idea than to go see it on the first day. Because according to the weather forecast, it's the only day when it could be beautiful. So, the fatigue from getting up and traveling earlier is put aside, and on the first day, the alarm clock is at five. It's "only" 22 km from our accommodation, but the journey takes an hour.
To the top Pico do Arieiro There is a nice asphalt road, but it is a road uphill, to the top, so it is all curves. At the end of the road you park in the parking lot, get out and discover that in 1818 meters It's really cold above sea level in May. And it's windy. But that doesn't matter, because you arrive at the last minute and the sun show is just starting, so you run about 300 meters to find the best place for photos.
As soon as the first ones start Sun rays penetrate between the rocks, creates a wonderful atmosphere. Suddenly you don't mind that you haven't slept, that you're wearing shorts even though it's almost freezing. It's a wonderful performance and an amazing experience. The first of many.
When the sun starts to warm up and you've photographed every spot from at least three angles, it's time to go on a trek. The hiking trail starts here PR1, a ridge that leads from the 1818-meter-high Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo, the highest peak in Madeira, which rises to a height 1862 meters.
The route measures approximately 5 km, it's along the ridge, the height difference isn't that big, it'll be fine, we'll be there in an hour, back in another. Mistake. Big, big mistake.
After the first few meters you will realize that it will have nothing to do with comfort. The entire route is about a million steps, so your butt, thighs, calves burn, the sun shines on you for a while, so you're hot, you're in the shade for a while, then you're cold again when the wind starts blowing.
But despite the difficulty, despite all the stairs, it's beautiful here. The landscape, the views, and at the top of Pico Ruivo you have the whole of Madeira in the palm of your hand. It's worth it. And believe me, thanks to all those stairs, a sore butt, and damaged legs, you'll remember this trek for a long time. In a good way, of course.
Levada dos Balcoes
One of the most popular viewpoints in Madeira is almost straight ahead, about 1.5 km long trail. You can park comfortably on the side of the road in Ribeiro Frio, or in the car park. You follow a wide, well-maintained path through the forest, partly along the levada, until you reach observation deck.
It rises on a high rock above a deep forested valley. From here you can see beautiful views of the interior, you can also see the highest peaks of the island – the entire Pico Arieiro ridge (1818 m), through Pico das Torres (1847 m) and Pico Ruivo (1861 m) to Pico das Pedras (1302 m).
And if you take some beaks for the finches, you might be lucky and feed them from your hand. When you're done enjoying and feeding the birds, you walk back to the car along the same leisurely path.
Typical Houses of Santana
If you happen to be passing through the town, or maybe even intentionally Santana in the north of the island, stop and take a walk. Here you will come across the famous whitewashed traditional shepherd's houses with red doors, blue shutters and a thatched roof. The open-air museum is right in the city, mostly around the center (there is also a covered parking lot across the road).
You can just walk around the houses, sit, peek inside, buy souvenirs or have a shot of traditional local beer. ponchos. It's a nice stop that will only take you about half an hour.
Levada do Furado - Ribeiro Frio
Levada do Furado – Ribeiro Frio is once of the oldest and most beautiful routes. Approximately 7 km long circular route It offers beautiful views, deep cliffs, several tunnels, beautiful vegetation all around, and a waterfall here and there.
You will also walk through a protected laurel forest of native Madeiran vegetation.
All this beauty begins in the village of Ribeiro Frio, from where you will set off on medium-difficult route. Although, if you take the route from Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo and back, all the treks are easy, I would say.
The first three kilometers are flat and then it comes. For the next 2 kilometers you literally climb 350 meters in height and when you are at the top, you have the last 2 kilometers ahead of you and you run back down.
There you glance at the levada that flows down the stairs, admire the blooming flowers, have a snack, get in the car and set off for your next adventure, because you still have the whole afternoon free.
Ponta de Sao Lourenco
The next adventure is here. From the green forest to the arid the easternmost point of Madeira – Ponta de Sao Lourenco. Well, as arid as ever. Its color changes with the seasons.
You can get here easily, the road leads to the beginning of the route, where you park in the parking lot. The sun will probably be scorching and the wind will be strong. So be prepared for that and don't forget to bring plenty of water.
The journey to the easternmost point of the island and back takes approximately 8 km and not a single bit is straight. You keep going up and down, you'll be going down and up a lot of stairs, so your butt will feel it again and it will burn.
Just before the end of the first half of the journey, it is very nice pub Casa do Sardinha. I advise you to ignore it and get to the end in peace. Don't make the mistake of sitting down right away. It's tempting, your legs are already hurting, you want to rest, but hold on.
Go all the way to the end and stop here on your way back. If you sit down here straight away and have something good, you're guaranteed not to make it to the end - I'm speaking from personal experience. All you'll have in mind is the difficult journey back and the hundreds of stairs.
Funchal
V the capital of Madeira You can visit a bunch of tourist attractions that you can find in every guidebook. But we didn't visit them, so I won't tell you anything about them.
What's nice is just to walk around the city. Start at the 16th century fortress, where you can also swim in the lakes, walk along the embankment. Stop at a stall, buy a luxurious ice cream and pop into St. Catherine's Park and just relax.
A short distance from the waterfront you can look out into the street Santa Maria Street, which is famous for its door paintings. The farmers' market is also worth a visit Farmers' Market, where you can buy fruit, vegetables or souvenirs.
But be careful where you shop. There are also those tourist trap, where they catch you at a stall, let you taste all the fruit you never knew you could eat, and suddenly you buy 6 small bananas for 5 Euros.
Cabo Girao
In the south of the island, about 9 km as the crow flies from the center of Funchal, there is steep sea cliff Cabo Girão. With its 589 meters it is above the sea the highest cliff in Madeira, the second highest in Europe and the twelfth highest in the world.
It almost falls vertically down into the ocean and at its highest point you can walk along the glass tourist lookout that sticks out over the edge of the cliff.
Nowhere else in Europe will you find a higher cliff lookout with glass floor. And the walk here is worth it.
Not only the view down, where you can only see the ocean surface almost 600 meters below you, but also the surrounding landscape. On one side you can see the town of Camara de Lobos and behind it Funchal, and on the other a grassy plateau.
Admission to the lookout is free and open 24 hours a day. The views of the setting sun are said to be unforgettable (but I can't confirm this).
Levada do Rei
Another place you can't miss. The start of the Levada do Rei (PR18) can be found on the outskirts of the town of Sao Jorge. If you arrive in the morning, you can park comfortably in a small car park. The entire levada runs dense vegetation of the laurel forest and is rightly classified among the most beautiful trails in Madeira.
Most of the route is flat or with slight ups and downs and measures approximately 5 km in each direction. Along the way, you will be treated to beautiful views of an unspoilt green paradise. You will also encounter several smaller waterfalls and you have to run under one larger one. That's also an experience.
The route ends at a place called Ribeiro Bonito. An amazing place with a stream surrounded by ferns. Sit here, relax and enjoy the views you don't see just like that.
Miradouro to Teleferico Das Achadas da Cruz
In the village of Achadas da Cruz, there is a cable car on the cliff that, for 3 euros, will take you a few hundred meters with a gentle sway down to the coast and then back.
Below you will find fields and garden houses, which locals come to from time to time. You can also walk down (about half an hour and the path is not for the faint of heart). We walked down and up by cable car.
Levada do Caldeirão Verde - Caldeirão do Inferno
If I have to recommend one levada that you absolutely must not miss, it is this one. Or rather these two. But you have to walk it all the way to the end, to the Caldeirão do Inferno. The whole route starts at a place called Queimadas, where there is a small paid parking lot. You can't get here except by car. As soon as you leave the parking lot, you'll feel like you're in a fairy tale. The first thing you see is two thatched-roof buildings on the edge of the forest, inside of which is a sort of café. Romance! A photogenic spot right at the beginning.
The Levada do Caldeirão Verde and the route leading to Caldeirão do Inferno are not circular. So you go same route there and back. In total you will find over 16 kilometers, so be sure to set aside a whole day. Arrive first thing in the morning, before everyone else is there. This levada is one of the more visited. But it will offer you everything you expect from hiking in Madeira. Impressive views of the surrounding landscape, beautiful waterfalls and lots of tunnels.
There are no major climbs for the first 5 kilometers. Easy going. First you walk along a fairly wide path through a romantic forest. But it gradually starts to narrow, enjoy it. After a while you reach the first waterfall, then the first tunnel that leads to a bend. It is dark, so you will appreciate a headlamp here.
After a few minutes, another tunnel, this time longer, and as soon as you get out of it, you're in another one. Some tunnels are low, so watch your head and where you step. It's wet next to the levadas, there are often puddles full of water and sometimes you'll splash in the mud.
Along the way, views will open up on your right side to the impressive Ribeira Grande valley and the path almost disappears. Suddenly, on your left, you only have a steep rock face with drops of water running down it between ferns and mosses, a levada carved into the rock and you only walk along its edge. On the right side, it's not much better. You are only secured by a railing with a steel cable and there is nothing behind it. Just deep, steep ravine.
But that doesn't bother you, it's not dangerous at all. So you keep going, sometimes avoiding other tourists who are already going back. But you keep going, sometimes avoiding other tourists who are already going back. Over the boulders, up the hill along the stream, you come to a waterfall Caldeirão Verde. The waterfall is high about 100 meters and falls into a small lake. Here you can take a break, have a snack and prepare for the worse part of the route, and there is no way back.
To Caldeirão do Inferno has about 2 km left, but it will be rewarding. Lots of stairs, more tunnels and waterfalls. But the beautiful Inferno Cauldron at the end makes the journey worth it. So don't give up and go all the way. The route ends at vertical walls, down which water flows in small streams. Beautiful. Well, and when you're done enjoying yourself here and trying to take a picture of the wall (it's so big that it's not really possible), take the same route back. It will be much more fun, you'll probably avoid other tourists on the narrow levada path a lot more. You'll get tired at the end of the route, but the whole day here was definitely worth it.
Levada das 25 Fontes (Las Levadas de Rabacal - 25 Fontes, Risco, Lagoa do Vento)
The most popular levadas in Madeira, where you will definitely encounter the most tourists. Here too, it pays off to get up early and arrive in the morning. There are even two parking lots at the beginning of the route, if you arrive early, you can park comfortably, it is full in the afternoon.
From the parking lot you have two options where to go. You can run down the road to the restaurant and take PR6 straight to 25 Fontes, or you can first take the PR6.2 route from the parking lot to the iconic Lagoa do Vento waterfall.
On this route you will also enjoy beautiful views of the surrounding landscape, laurel forests full of heather and hanging lichens and many other beauties. Together you will walk through 12 kilometers, mostly on gentle terrain, here and there with a slightly steeper climb or descent. You will also step on some stairs here. The path will narrow here too, in places it is narrow along the irrigation canal and is secured by a railing.
Madeira is full of wonderful natural beauty and this is 100% true of it. 25 Fontes, which will be waiting for you at the end of the route. However, it is not a waterfall, but a 25 springs that flow down a vertical wall into a pond. I'm going to repeat myself, but the view is really beautiful.
Pico Grande
Pico Grande is 1654 meter high peak Madeira. There is a ridge route of about 5 km leading to it.
If you're tired of forests, levadas and waterfalls, this is the best way to unwind. I did it myself. Literally. I met 8 people in the whole day.
The route marked PR12 starts at the parking lot, marked on the map as Boca da Corrida. You arrive, you park, you set off. Don't forget sunscreen and lots and lots of water. The sun is quite hot here.
The route is peaceful, you look at the surrounding peaks or down into the lowlands the whole time and watch as you approach the obelisk, which is your destination today. I'm curious how it's climbed there.
You've covered three and a half kilometers, less than a kilometer left, which opens scary sign with the sign Pico Grande, so you're going the right way. On the last kilometer, you'll be 300 meters up.
First, a few stone steps, some of the gravel missing, secured by a railing that looks flimsy, and then on the right, just a precipice and a fall down. Phew, it's starting to get scary and it's not over yet.
But when you're here, you gather all your strength and go. The sun is burning, your ass is burning, your legs are on fire. You're up. Almost. Just the big rock. It's smooth, so to get to the top, you have to grab the rope and climb it. It's a little adrenaline, but when you're up there. Wow.
I preferred to sit down for a while to calm down. An ideal place for a snack, photos or launching a drone. And no one anywhere. Great view. The way back is then along the same route.
Fanal
The last stop is Fanal – Misty forest. A place where no tree is the same and all are bent and tilted in different ways due to the environment. It is a place where clouds pass through, where stronger winds blow, and where it is cold and damp.
Don't forget to visit here too and go here first thing in the morning. You're probably more likely to catch the fog, which makes it so photogenic, and at the same time you won't see anyone except cows.
You arrive, park in the parking lot, put on all the clothes you can find, because it's really cold outside. We're lucky. Clouds all around. It passes quickly, so the landscape around changes every minute.
There are several routes starting from the parking lot and from Fanal in general. We went just walk around the trees, there are well-trodden paths and in the end it was a roughly 3 km circular route around the lagoon, which is on the map, but in reality has already dried up. But be careful, there are cows grazing there, so be careful where you step and most importantly don't upset any of them.
Charging for tourist routes
Madeira will charge fees for 30 hiking trails from 2025. Some of them have already been charged since October 2024. You can find the current list on the page https://simplifica.madeira.gov.pt/services/78-82-259, where you will also pay a 3 Euro entrance fee for adults and children over 12 years of age.
Madeira is an incredibly beautiful island that is worth visiting. It is made for hiking lovers and has many places that will leave you amazed and literally gaping, and you will definitely not regret the time you spend here. On the contrary, you will want to stay here as long as possible.
